Diving at North Cape, Norway
August 18th, 2009 | 
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With little regard to the abundance of awesome dive sites around the island of Magerøya it the diving the North Cape, everybody asks for. Not just for the sake of having been there done that at Europe’s most northern point but also because of the fantastic terrain below the vertical cliffs.
Diving at 71°10′21″N
The expectations were sky high when we first rolled off the Zodiac and plunged into the big blue under the towering 307m high North Cape plateau. Below the almost vertical cliffs we descended into an indescribable wild and beautiful underwater nature. One gully followed after another in a very varied terrain. At a depth of 17-18 meters we can’t feel the ocean swell anymore and swimming along the wall we come across big hollows encircled by kelp forest. Our senses are constantly being bombarded here. The visibility is excellent and above us we see how the surf is breaking and slamming into foam as it hits the rocks. We enter a gully, where a squadron of coal fish swiftly sweep across the kelp, flying low in formation. We enter another gully moving forward in a jerky fashion as the swell above makes the water pulsate down here. Some times it is necessary to grab hold of a kelp stalk, to stay put when the current recedes outwards. In the narrow gullies we encounter dense beds of sea anemone. The colorful tentacles sway with the current. Here and there a curious squat lobster pokes it head out to see who is coming to visit. It starts to get quite narrow so we turn around and go out the way we entered and conclude this dive by doing a little round in the kelp forest. From a depth of only a few meters we make our final ascent while looking up at the steep cliff which is the very fringe of continental Norway.
Spooky night diving
We were also able to make a couple of great night dives on this trip - which is not really possible during the high season when the midnight sun provides for 24 hour daylight. Great night dives can be done only a few minutes drive from Honningsvåg and it is absolutely worthwhile spending some hours down here one evening rather than hanging out in the pub. Swimming around in the shallow kelp forest in the soothing darkness of the inner fjord in a unique experience. You are never quite sure what you are going to encounter next. You sweep the surroundings with the beam of your torch and suddenly something blinks back. An enormous cod comes closer to investigate matters and see who or what is intruding on this peaceful evening. On the light sandy bottom a plaice is trying to hide but is given away by its rolling eyes scanning my every movement. I suddenly get goosebumps as a dark shadow in front of me moves. The beam of my torch cuts through the water like a sword and strikes a wolf fish right in the forehead. It just lies there munching on sea snails with its impressive denture. Bon appetite we can’t help murmuring to ourselves before we press on with our dive.
Cave diving
I Tufjorden on the island of Magerøya’s west side we find a cave. At a depth of 4-5 meters there is an opening taking you about 80 meters into the mountain. A good deal of this passage is rather narrow, so diving here should be reserved for high tide and calm seas. Otherwise the swell would probably send you tumbling around out of control like clothes in a dryer. The innermost parts of this cave opens up in a spacious cavern with 5-6 meters up to the ceiling and a big space of air. This dive is not for the claustrophobic. After a while in the dark you start wondering whether there might me a dragon lurking in the shadows while you frantically fin your way back to daylight. The cave itself is not all that spectacular but the entrance and exit makes for a quite exciting and special underwater swim for those who have a propensity for this kind of adrenaline rush. The less experienced can still get their kicks by restricting themselves to the first 10-15 meters of the entrance, where there is still daylight and direct access to the open sea. In the opening it is still possible to marvel at the polished rock face and play of light without having to venture into the realm of absolute darkness. And the diving outside the cave is not bad either. Lots of kelp and a very varied topography that descends into the depths as you go outwards in the fjord. Below the southern cliffs the seabed are strewn with boulders covered with dense beds of sea anemone.
Four seasons
There is no point in denying that the weather has a great deal to say when it comes to diving around Magerøya. But it is always possible to find dive sites that are sheltered so you can always dive. Perhaps you will have to endure a bumpy ride, or lashing rain or wind. According to the locals you don’t get far in these parts if you are not prepared to be flexible around your comfort requirements. It is not a place for whiners. On the other side, the Arctic ocean might, all of a sudden, show off and present itself from its most pleasant sides where the ocean is dead calm like a blue rug, while the sun shines from a deep blue sky. You are advised to bring with you clothing for all types of weather and seasons. If you are properly dressed you will always be able to enjoy the magnificent scenery up here - regardless for what the weather throws at you. This is Northern Norway when it is best, and worst.
On top of Europe
The North Cape rises 307 meters out of the Arctic ocean and 200.000 tourists find their way here to claim that they have made it to the top of Europe. They want to experience the midnight sun from the most northern point in Europe. Well, that is what they think. The most northern point is in fact, Knivskjellodden, a little further to the west. However the North Cape is far more impressive than the little lame and boring tongue of land to the northwest. The cliffs at North Cape is impressive and a must-see and even though it costs a whopping NOK 185,- (about USD 30) it is still worthwhile. Aside from the astonishing view itself, there is a museum, restaurant, chapel and omnimax movie theater. The 17 minutes long movie is made by Ivo Caprino and gives and fantastic presentation of what North Cape and northern Norway has to offer above and under the surface, and from the air. This gives the experience of having dived off North Cape an unique added dimension.
Author: Arnold Weisz
To read more of Arnold Weisz’s articles about travel, scuba diving, environment and food, see http://www.xray-mag.com/Front
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/
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